amanda castleman - sidebars for moviemaker oxford

Moviemaker Magazine
Spring 2005

Sidebars for Naughty and Nice in the UK
England's movie industry stretches far beyond slick spires and wheezing wizards. Oxford is a town that has it all

Know before you go
The UK Film Council guides both domestic and international filmmakers (020.7861.7901; www.ukfilmcouncil.org.uk). Screen South oversees locations and recruiting in Oxfordshire (01303.298.222; www.screensouth.org). Pinewood and Shepperton are the closest studios (01753.656.844; www.pinewoodshepperton.com).

Oxford Film and Video Makers provide training, production support and screenings (54 Catherine St; 01865.792.732; www.ofvm.org). The city also hosts a documentary film festival each autumn (www.oxdox.com).

Oxford is home to two notable cinemas. The Phoenix is slicker – part of the small UK Picturehouse chain – but still runs short films on occasion (57 Walton St; 01865.512.526; www.picturehouses.co.uk). The Ultimate Picture Palace is the gritty real deal, however: an independent cinema in a 1911 shell, which doesn't even bother with a concession stand. “We look for good films which have fallen by the wayside, that might be overlooked by the art houses,” explains co-owner Habeeb Markham (Jeune St, look for the sunrise sign just off Cowley Rd, Oxford; 01865.245.288; www.ultimatepicturepalace.co.uk).

Information
The superb bookstore Blackwells (48-51 Broad St; 01865.792.792; www.blackwell.co.uk) sells travel guides, among them Oxford: Through the Looking Glass, the only such volume written by University students (Wordworks 2001). The extensive “Film, Media & Culture” section is worth browsing too. Or go straight to the scholarly source: pop into Oxford University Press Bookshop for possible bargains on titles like The Oxford History of World Cinema and Oxford Guide to Film Studies (116 High St; 01865.242.913; www.oup.co.uk).

The Oxford Information Center is open Mon-Sat 9:30am-5pm; plus Sun 10am-3:30pm June-Sept (15-16 Broad St; 01865.726.871; www.visitoxford.org). The weekly Oxford Times and daily Oxford Mail contain event listings (www.thisisoxfordshire.co.uk). Check out the local notices in Daily Information, the huge bright posters plastered around town (also www.dailyinfo.co.uk).

Where to eat
Oxford, the original University town, is chock full of cozy cafes. Savor an earthy-crunchy salad, pasta or quiche in the art museum basement at Café MOMA (30 Pembroke St; 01865.813.814). G&D's Cafe, with its splashy cow theme, is famous for homemade ice-cream and chewy bagels (55 Little Clarendon St; 01865.516.652). Nearby Freud Cafe takes the prize for architectural splendor: Beautiful People knock back cocktails, nachos and pizza in a de-sanctified church, complete with neoclassical pillars. Service is infuriatingly slow, however (Walton St; 01865.311.171).

The Trout remains the city's most atmospheric waterside option. A humpbacked, disintegrating footbridge spans the river here, where the Thames cascades over a weir and peacocks strut. Inspector Morse's favorite haunt is famed for mulled wine in winter, Pimms No. 1 Cup in summer and good grub year-round (95 Godstow Rd, Lower Wolvercote; 01865.302.071). The five-mile stroll from city center – through Port Meadow, the grazing commons – is exquisite. This 350-acre green swathe also contains the twelfth-century Godstow nunnery, once notorious for its, ahem, “hospitality” to young monks.

Make a pilgrimage to the Eagle and Child, where J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis traded writing tips while tippling (also known as the Bird and Baby; 49 St. Giles; 01865.302925). The Turf Tavern remains a hidden gem – quite literally. The thirteenth-century pub is secreted down a maze of alleys near the Bridge of Sighs. Heat lamps and coal fires warm the beer garden in winter (4 Bath Place; 01865.243235).

The elegant bohemian bistro Chez Gaston serves plump ciabatta sandwiches, couscous, crepes, pastas and salads, with innovative flavors such as goat cheese and apricot chutney (9b North Parade Ave, off Banbury Rd; 01865.311.608). Celebrate special occasions at French celebrity chef Raymond Blanc's more affordable outlet, Le Petit Blanc (71 Walton St; 01865.510.999; www.lepetitblanc.co.uk) or signature experience Le Manoir (see below).

Stock up on picnic supplies in the rabbit-warren Covered Market (off Cornmarket St; 8.30-17.30; closed Sunday). Opt for runny Oxford Blue cheese and local sausage, finishing with tea and a raisin-rich Oxford Lardy Cake. Or concoct an organic salad at Alphabar, paired with Italian delicacies from Fasta Pasta. Squeamish sorts should avoid the market, hung with deer carcasses and other startling butcheries. Instead, select among tidier offerings at Marks & Spencer, England's posh supermarket chain (13-18 Queen St; 01865.248.075; www.marksandspencer.com).

Where to stay
The cheap and cheerful Backpackers' Hostel offers beds from £13 (a bargain – and downtown to boot, unlike the remote YHA location). The scene is young, insistent and loud. In fact, the management promotes its “bar famous for late nights and table dancing”. Single and mixed-sex dorms; 92 beds; no curfew; kitchen; laundry; Internet; luggage storage; pool table (9a Hythe Bridge Street; 01865.721.761; www.hostels.co.uk).

The River Hotel nestles on the bank of the Thames by Osney Bridge, a ten-minute walk from the city center. The pleasant brick Victorian contains 20 rooms, mostly en-suite; free parking; modem ports (17 Botley Rd; 01865.2434.75; www.riverhotel.co.uk). For a spot of local color, visit the Waterman's Arms pub, just across the footbridge.

The posh Randolph Hotel preens downtown, across from the famous Ashmolean museum. From the crystal chandeliers to the white-gloved porters, it's utterly correct and ever-so-slightly fusty - a foreigners' dream of English propriety. William Wilkinson designed the simplified gothic building with 111 en-suite rooms; modem ports; CD-players; afternoon tea (Beaumont St; 0870.400.8200; www.therandolphhotel.com).

Chic celebrity chef Raymond Blanc attached a hotel to his cookery school and restaurant, Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons. The 27-acre estate lies in the tranquil village near Oxford. Visitors are cocooned in 32 individually designed bedrooms (one even boasts an open fire and Zen garden). The bill is substantial, but special deals often include a seven-course dinner and French breakfast - true incitements with Blanc at the kitchen's helm (Church Rd, Great Milton; 01844.278.881; www.manoir.com).

Transport
Buses connect Oxford with Heathrow Airport (£18 period return) and Gatwick (£26; 01865.785.400; www.theairline.info). London shuttles run 24 hours a day between Victoria Station and Gloucester Green. Many locals prefer the Oxford “Espress” service, which stops at Baker Street (01865.785.400; www.oxfordbus.co.uk), though the Oxford Tube boasts onboard toilets (01865.772.250; www.stagecoach-oxford.co.uk). One-way £10, next day return £12, period return £15. The trip takes 90 minutes, unless mired in commuter traffic.

Train fares are much steeper (£16.40 one-way, more during peak periods; www.nationalrail.co.uk). Without changes, it's roughly an hour from London Paddington to Oxford's station on Botley Road. Delays are common, however.

Cars are a liability in downtown Oxford, a medieval maze of one-way streets with limited parking. Leave your auto on the outskirts at the Park and Ride lots, then hop a bus into town. Cab companies include Radio Taxi (01865.242.424) and ABC (01865.770.681).

"The Ultimate Picture Palace
is the gritty real deal,
however: an independent
cinema in a 1911 shell,
which doesn't even bother
with a concession stand."

"Make a pilgrimage
to the Eagle and Child,
where J.R.R. Tolkien
and CS Lewis traded
writing tips while tippling."

"Inspector Morse's
favorite haunt is
famed for mulled wine
in winter, Pimms No. 1
Cup in summer and
good grub year-round."

Back to the portfolio

Moviemaker Magazine Spring 2005		Sidebars for Naughty and Nice in the UK England's movie industry stretches far beyond slick spires and wheezing wizards. Oxford is a town that has it all
		Know before you go The UK Film Council guides both domestic and international filmmakers (020.7861.7901; www.ukfilmcouncil.org.uk). Screen South oversees locations and recruiting in Oxfordshire (01303.298.222; www.screensouth.org). Pinewood and Shepperton are the closest studios (01753.656.844; www.pinewoodshepperton.com). Oxford Film and Video Makers provide training, production support and screenings (54 Catherine St; 01865.792.732; www.ofvm.org). The city also hosts a documentary film festival each autumn (www.oxdox.com). Oxford is home to two notable cinemas. The Phoenix is slicker – part of the small UK Picturehouse chain – but still runs short films on occasion (57 Walton St; 01865.512.526; www.picturehouses.co.uk). The Ultimate Picture Palace is the gritty real deal, however: an independent cinema in a 1911 shell, which doesn't even bother with a concession stand. “We look for good films which have fallen by the wayside, that might be overlooked by the art houses,” explains co-owner Habeeb Markham (Jeune St, look for the sunrise sign just off Cowley Rd, Oxford; 01865.245.288; www.ultimatepicturepalace.co.uk). Information The superb bookstore Blackwells (48-51 Broad St; 01865.792.792; www.blackwell.co.uk) sells travel guides, among them Oxford: Through the Looking Glass, the only such volume written by University students (Wordworks 2001). The extensive “Film, Media & Culture” section is worth browsing too. Or go straight to the scholarly source: pop into Oxford University Press Bookshop for possible bargains on titles like The Oxford History of World Cinema and Oxford Guide to Film Studies (116 High St; 01865.242.913; www.oup.co.uk). The Oxford Information Center is open Mon-Sat 9:30am-5pm; plus Sun 10am-3:30pm June-Sept (15-16 Broad St; 01865.726.871; www.visitoxford.org). The weekly Oxford Times and daily Oxford Mail contain event listings (www.thisisoxfordshire.co.uk). Check out the local notices in Daily Information, the huge bright posters plastered around town (also www.dailyinfo.co.uk). Where to eat Oxford, the original University town, is chock full of cozy cafes. Savor an earthy-crunchy salad, pasta or quiche in the art museum basement at Café MOMA (30 Pembroke St; 01865.813.814). G&D's Cafe, with its splashy cow theme, is famous for homemade ice-cream and chewy bagels (55 Little Clarendon St; 01865.516.652). Nearby Freud Cafe takes the prize for architectural splendor: Beautiful People knock back cocktails, nachos and pizza in a de-sanctified church, complete with neoclassical pillars. Service is infuriatingly slow, however (Walton St; 01865.311.171). The Trout remains the city's most atmospheric waterside option. A humpbacked, disintegrating footbridge spans the river here, where the Thames cascades over a weir and peacocks strut. Inspector Morse's favorite haunt is famed for mulled wine in winter, Pimms No. 1 Cup in summer and good grub year-round (95 Godstow Rd, Lower Wolvercote; 01865.302.071). The five-mile stroll from city center – through Port Meadow, the grazing commons – is exquisite. This 350-acre green swathe also contains the twelfth-century Godstow nunnery, once notorious for its, ahem, “hospitality” to young monks. Make a pilgrimage to the Eagle and Child, where J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis traded writing tips while tippling (also known as the Bird and Baby; 49 St. Giles; 01865.302925). The Turf Tavern remains a hidden gem – quite literally. The thirteenth-century pub is secreted down a maze of alleys near the Bridge of Sighs. Heat lamps and coal fires warm the beer garden in winter (4 Bath Place; 01865.243235). The elegant bohemian bistro Chez Gaston serves plump ciabatta sandwiches, couscous, crepes, pastas and salads, with innovative flavors such as goat cheese and apricot chutney (9b North Parade Ave, off Banbury Rd; 01865.311.608). Celebrate special occasions at French celebrity chef Raymond Blanc's more affordable outlet, Le Petit Blanc (71 Walton St; 01865.510.999; www.lepetitblanc.co.uk) or signature experience Le Manoir (see below). Stock up on picnic supplies in the rabbit-warren Covered Market (off Cornmarket St; 8.30-17.30; closed Sunday). Opt for runny Oxford Blue cheese and local sausage, finishing with tea and a raisin-rich Oxford Lardy Cake. Or concoct an organic salad at Alphabar, paired with Italian delicacies from Fasta Pasta. Squeamish sorts should avoid the market, hung with deer carcasses and other startling butcheries. Instead, select among tidier offerings at Marks & Spencer, England's posh supermarket chain (13-18 Queen St; 01865.248.075; www.marksandspencer.com). Where to stay The cheap and cheerful Backpackers' Hostel offers beds from £13 (a bargain – and downtown to boot, unlike the remote YHA location). The scene is young, insistent and loud. In fact, the management promotes its “bar famous for late nights and table dancing”. Single and mixed-sex dorms; 92 beds; no curfew; kitchen; laundry; Internet; luggage storage; pool table (9a Hythe Bridge Street; 01865.721.761; www.hostels.co.uk). The River Hotel nestles on the bank of the Thames by Osney Bridge, a ten-minute walk from the city center. The pleasant brick Victorian contains 20 rooms, mostly en-suite; free parking; modem ports (17 Botley Rd; 01865.2434.75; www.riverhotel.co.uk). For a spot of local color, visit the Waterman's Arms pub, just across the footbridge. The posh Randolph Hotel preens downtown, across from the famous Ashmolean museum. From the crystal chandeliers to the white-gloved porters, it's utterly correct and ever-so-slightly fusty - a foreigners' dream of English propriety. William Wilkinson designed the simplified gothic building with 111 en-suite rooms; modem ports; CD-players; afternoon tea (Beaumont St; 0870.400.8200; www.therandolphhotel.com). Chic celebrity chef Raymond Blanc attached a hotel to his cookery school and restaurant, Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons. The 27-acre estate lies in the tranquil village near Oxford. Visitors are cocooned in 32 individually designed bedrooms (one even boasts an open fire and Zen garden). The bill is substantial, but special deals often include a seven-course dinner and French breakfast - true incitements with Blanc at the kitchen's helm (Church Rd, Great Milton; 01844.278.881; www.manoir.com). Transport Buses connect Oxford with Heathrow Airport (£18 period return) and Gatwick (£26; 01865.785.400; www.theairline.info). London shuttles run 24 hours a day between Victoria Station and Gloucester Green. Many locals prefer the Oxford “Espress” service, which stops at Baker Street (01865.785.400; www.oxfordbus.co.uk), though the Oxford Tube boasts onboard toilets (01865.772.250; www.stagecoach-oxford.co.uk). One-way £10, next day return £12, period return £15. The trip takes 90 minutes, unless mired in commuter traffic. Train fares are much steeper (£16.40 one-way, more during peak periods; www.nationalrail.co.uk). Without changes, it's roughly an hour from London Paddington to Oxford's station on Botley Road. Delays are common, however. Cars are a liability in downtown Oxford, a medieval maze of one-way streets with limited parking. Leave your auto on the outskirts at the Park and Ride lots, then hop a bus into town. Cab companies include Radio Taxi (01865.242.424) and ABC (01865.770.681).
"The Ultimate Picture Palace is the gritty real deal, however: an independent cinema in a 1911 shell, which doesn't even bother with a concession stand."
"Make a pilgrimage to the Eagle and Child, where J.R.R. Tolkien and CS Lewis traded writing tips while tippling."
"Inspector Morse's favorite haunt is famed for mulled wine in winter, Pimms No. 1 Cup in summer and good grub year-round."
		*Back to the portfolio*