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Making a splash
Thermal Baths
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Ischia’s thermal baths have been getting rave reviews since Roman
times. Pliny and Strabo heartily endorsed a plunge, despite the threat
of volcanic eruptions.
A 16th-century Calabrese physician, Jasolino, investigated the island’s
therapeutic properties. He concluded that "the waters are hot and
shining. It aids the kidneys and heals liver sports. The water can be
used in place of all the baths in Avignon."
Europe’s rich and famous began flocking there in the 19th century
– and the trickle of visitors hasn’t flagged since. Ischians
meet the demand fairly gracefully. Only a few patches of the island have
an over-developed neon tourist taint. Most thermal parks manage to mix
breath-taking views and creature comforts with the native serenity.
The island’s 103 hot springs are joined by 69 fumaroles, steam geysers.
Rain water trickles through the porous stone into deep naturally-heated
reservoirs. Steam rises off, passing through mineral-rich soil, then warms
more shallow pools. Temperatures range from 15 to 86 ºC.
Depending on the soil content, these alkaline waters contain sulphur,
iodine, chlorine, iron and potassium. All the bits you normally filter
out of water, now become desirable – in the name of health. Spas
also heavily promote the traces of the "noble gas" radon.
The Ischia web site explains that a little radioactivity can be a good
thing (www.ischiaonline.it). "This
presence is not harmful because the gas has a reduced power of penetration
(a sheet of paper is enough to stop it). Radon also has a short period
of life, so it can’t accumulate. Demonstrations show it has a good
influence on human health, exalting physiological functions."
Most thermal parks offer a range of pampering services, including mineral
baths, ozone therapy, mud wraps, aerosols and underwater massage. Some
provide speleotherapy, where patients bask in dry or moist caves, or more
complex beauty aids like anti-cellulite massage, laser therapy and eyebrow
dying.
Casual spa-goers should book a separate accommodation, then visit one
of the thermal parks on a day ticket (around £30,000-40,000). Some
hotels have in-house facilities, which are generally more elite and less
spectacular. Long-term cures and specific treatments should be arranged
in advance – even a basic massage requires a reservation.
The quaint village of Sant’Angelo, which remains resolutely pedestrian,
boasts two spas: Aphrodite Apollon and the Tropical. In nearby Barano,
the Romans carved rough thermal baths into the tufa rock. Cava Scura is
still in use today, though closed for the winter. The neighbouring sands
of Maronti Beach are warmed by steam geysers.
A famous thermal park was built on the ruined temple of Venus Citarea
in Forio. Legend claims the Vestal Virgins bathed at the springs, giving
the water an aphrodisiac quality. Decide for yourself at the sunny Giardini
Poseidon, then visit the submerged sea springs in the Bay of Sorgeto.
Cassamicciola Terme was the spa epicentre until the late 19th century,
which hosted both Garibaldi and Ibsen. A cluster of baths remain, including
Castiglione, Rita and Bagni. The Gurgitello springs include Stomacho (tastes
like capon broth, considered useful for sterility), Denti (for the gums)
and Aurifero (thought to contain real gold).
Ischian spas are best visited between early April and end of November,
but many remain open throughout the winter.
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Getting
to Ischia
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Take the train to Napoli Mergellina. Turn right outside the station and
walk 200 feet down to the waterfront, lined with ferry terminals. Linee
Lauro runs to Ischia Porto (081.7614090), while SNAV runs to Casamicciola
(081.7612348). A hydrofoil tickets costs about £21,000, the slower
ferry just £10,000.
The CS1bus runs through
both port towns and turns around at Cava Grado outside Sant’Angelo
(look for the Tropical Gardens sign, then walk downhill into the village
– or take a three-wheeled mini-taxi). Buy return bus tickets in the
port town, as they sell out in Sant’Angelo (£1,800 each).
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Our picks in
Sant'Angelo |
Giardini Termali Aphrodite Apollon
Hot baths cascade down the cliff over the bay. The spa also offers hydromassage
waterfalls, health treatments, a hot sand beach, waterslide and fairly dank
‘natural’ sauna, plus free taxi boat. Day ticket £38.000.
Tel: 081/999219. Fax: 081/999325. Web: www.aphrodite.it.
The rival Giardini Termali Tropical are open off-season (Via Cava Ruffano.
Tel: 081/999242).
Pizzeria da Pasquale
Huge wooden benches and rope lamps make this informal pizzeria quite cozy.
Da Pasquale serves a straight-forward, but excellent, pizza and home-made
creme caramel. Meals average £20,000 with beer. Via Sant’Angelo
Coatro 79. Tel: 081/904208.
Lo Scoglio
This cheerful restaurant, overlooking an illuminated cove, is actually carved
into a sea stack. Huge portions of Southern Italian fare include the local
extra virgin olive oil, Pasquale Arcamone. Meals average £35,000 including
wine. Via Cava Ruffano. Tel: 081/999529.
Ristorante Bar dal Pescatore
Wrought iron and fish mosaics decorate this elegant restaurant catering
to the tourist trade, with prices that reflects its superb waterfront location.
Meals average £50,000 including wine; an hot drink costs £8,000-£12,000.
Piazzetta Marina Sant’Angelo. Tel: 081/904267.
Ristorante La Tavernetta del Pirata
Pirate motif and piratical prices, but there’s no better place for
a post-spa cocktail. This waterfront bar has cheerful music, substantial
complimentary tapas and wicker chairs overlooking the harbour. Drinks average
£20,000. Via S. Angelo. Tel: 081/999251. |
Other tourist
destinations |
Aragonese Castle
The Aragonese Castle is perched atop a rocky island, accessible from a
short causeway. Ischia’s castle dates back to 474BC, built by Gerone,
tyrant of Syracuse. The poet princess Vittoria Colonna was married there,
and her admirer Michelangelo designed one of castle towers.
At the height of its splendour, the castle held 5,000 people and 13 children.
Admiral Nelson’s fleet destroyed most of the architecture in 1809,
shelling the French garrison. The castle served as a prison and political
penal colony, before its purchase by the Matera family.
Ischia Porto
Ischia Porto is a glamorous strip that aspires to international jet-set
status, while the neighbouring Ischia Ponte remains – as much as
possible – a reclusive fishing village. The port town has a small
grotto heated by fumaroles, churches of Santa Maria di Porto Salvo and
a bright red Aquarium. But the boutiques, restaurants and bars are the
true draw.
Ischia Porto is
a tourist town. Love it for what it is.
Casamicciola
Casamicciola is so famous for geothermal activity, that its name was slang
for earthquake and catastrophe in the 19th century. Garibaldi treated
his wounds, which he received on Aspromonte, at the spa here. And Norwegian
playwright Henrik Ibsen wrote Peer Gynt while holed up in Casamicciola.
Tourist sites include the church of the Madonna del Buon Consiglio, devoted
to sailors, and the popular Parco Termale del Castiglione.
Lacco Ameno
Lacco Ameno began as Pithekoussai, the first Greek colony in the west,
in the 8th century BC. The Pithecusae Archaeological Museum houses artefacts,
including the Cup of Nestor of Iliad fame. A more startling landmark is
the Fungo, a mushroom-shaped rock sprouting on the shore. Legend says
two star-crossed lovers tried to run off to sea, but drowned – and
the magic mushroom arose, a monument to their love. The thermal-mineral
basin, Regina Isabella has the highest co-efficient of radioactivity found
in nature.
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