amanda castleman - sidebars for moviemaker cinecitta

Moviemaker Magazine
Spring 2004

Sidebars for Cinema city: Rome’s eternal appeal
The "Hollywood on the Tiber" survives bombs, near-bankruptcy and blockbusters with bella figura

Ten striking cinematic moments in la città bella
Passing away in the Pigneto
Gestapo agents gun down the protesting widow Pina, played by Anna Magnani, in Open City (Roma Città Aperta, 1945). This proletarian suburb, the Pigneto, attracted Roberto Rossellini, as well as Pier Paolo Pasolini (Accattone! and Mamma Roma).

Flight in the Porta Portese flea-market
The humble poster-sticker and son pursue a bike-napper through the sprawling Porta Portese flea-market in Vittorio De Sica’s Bicycle Thief (Ladri di Bicicletti, 1948). Hope dies after a long chase on the Lungotevere Ripa, flanking the Tiber River.

Ad-lib and adventure in the historic center
William Wyler sends Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck lurching on a Vespa in Roman Holiday (1953). Even more endearing is the scene at the Mouth of Truth (the Bocca della Verità at Santa Maria in Cosmedin). Legend claims the disk’s face consumes the hands of liars. Peck’s improv – and his co-star’s ensuing screech – sealed the celebrity of this sculpture, which is probably an ancient drain cover.

Wishing well at the Trevi Fountain
Lovestruck American girls scatter spare change on the waters in Jean Negulesco’s Three Coins in a Fountain (Tre Soldi nella Fontana, 1954). Tradition claims one coin (cast backward over the left shoulder) ensures a return to Rome, two bring love and three a wedding in the Eternal City.

Film noir in Piazza Farnese
Murder and mayhem unleash near the French Embassy in Italy’s top thriller, The Facts of Murder (Un Maledetto Imbroglio, 1959), by Pietro Germi.

Chariot chaos in the Circus Maximus
In Ben Hur, Charlton Heston ricochets around a replica of the ancient Roman racetrack. No humans were harmed fatally in the making of William Wyler’s 1959 biblical blockbuster, contrary to rumor. However, its jinxed 1925 predecessor lost a stuntman on a set here, then relocated to Culver City.

Vanity fair at the Via Veneto
Federico Fellini captures the glitterati’s nightlife – in all its vanity and vapidity – in La Dolce Vita (1960).

Massive model at the EUR
Giantess Anita Ekberg chases a bourgeois, moralist professor outside the "square-shaped Colosseum" (Colosseo quadrato, formally known as the Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro). In The Temptations of Dr. Antonio (Le Tentazioni del Dottor Antonio, 1962), Fellini exploits the surreal architecture of EUR – the Esposizione Universale Roma, a Fascist-built World Exhibition complex.

Porn in Piazza Navona
This Baroque square saw Sophia Loren’s iconic and ironic strip tease in De Sica’s Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow (Ieri, Oggi e Domani, 1963).

Pantheon as paunch
Peter Greenaway turns the rotund Roman temple into an alter ego in Belly of an Architect (1987). An American associates the capital’s cupolas with his bulging stomach, which, it emerges, harbors a tumour.

Know before you go
Even the bureaucracy is Fellini-esque: applications for cinematography permits must include a €5.16 inquiry fee, a €10.33 revenue stamp and a €0.77 "release of authorisation". Contact the CineRomaCittà Film Commission (www.romacinemafilmcommission.it; +39.06.67.108.162; Settore Autorizzazioni, Via Tuscolana 1055, 00173 Roma. The same address serves the regional board; www.laziofilmcommission.it; +39.0672286.226).

The Roma Independent Film Festival takes place in early April each year (www.riff.it; +39.06.45.425.050; Via Po 134, 00198 Roma). In autumn, the city hosts the progressive Cinecittà Internet Film Festival (www.cinecitta.com).

Visual artists are eligible for the Rome Prize – eleven-months' lodging, studio space and stipend from the prestigious American Academy in Rome (www.aarome.org; 212-751-7200; 7 East 60 Street, New York, NY, 10022).

Finally, request the excellent brochure, Rome, The Great Movie Set: a never-ending emotion, from Azienda di Promozione Turistica di Roma (www.romaturismo.it; +39.06.488.991; Via Parigi 11, 00185 Roma).

Where to eat
Even the fast food is delectable in Rome. Pizza al taglio shops sell mouth-watering slices, cut to order and wrapped in wax paper. Try plump suppli, tomato-rice balls, or cheese-potato pizza, sprinkled with rosemary: the city’s best is at La Boccaccia – Pizza e Focaccia (06.581.0043; Via di S. Dorotea 2, Trastevere). Many cafes serve excellent sandwiches, squashed flat in the grill, as well as fresh juice. Three speedy standouts are the salad sanctuary L’Insalata Ricca (www.insalataricca.it; 06.588.1301; Via G.C. Santini 12/16, Trastevere), Café Café (06.700.8743; Via de' S.S. Quattro 44, near the Colosseum) and, for that fried fish fix, Dal Filettaro a Santa Barbara (06.686.4018; Largo dei Librari 88, near the Campo de’ Fiori).

Any place begging for custom is dire, as Romans will wait hours to eat at the best pizzerias, like Da Baffetto. Sixties radicals popularised this straightforward establishment – now the whole world scrambles for a seat (06.686.1617; Via del Governo Vecchio 114, near Piazza Navona).

Locals prefer to dine across the river in atmospheric Trastevere, home to two famous pizza restaurants. Dar Poeta serves up soft, rich pies in a jovial atmosphere (closed lunch, closed Mon; 06.588.0516; Vicolo del Bologna 45). Panattoni is gruffer, but the vast pizzas are just as tasty. Celebrities rub shoulders with workers at the long marble tables. Also known as I Marmi, the Marbles, and the less-appetising l'Obitorio, the Morgue (closed Wed, closed August; 06.580.0919; Viale Trastevere 53/59).

Da Settimio is a vivid, cheerful nook near the Pantheon, serving the best penne all’arrabiata in town (pasta with fiery tomato-garlic sauce) and superb gorgonzola polenta (firm corn-meal cake). Reserve a table for dinner, as this petite establishment quickly overflows (closed Sun and Mon; closed August; 06.678.9651; Via delle Colonnelle 14).

Evangelista’s is perfect for long, intimate meals, including at least one fabled artichoke dish. Try them alla giudia (Roman-Jewish style, batter-fried whole) or al mattone (crushed between two bricks, then baked). An elegant option (closed lunch, closed Sun, closed August; 06.687.5810; Via delle Zoccolette 11a, near the Ghetto). Finally, celebrate special occasions at Antico Arco, a nouvelle cuisine mecca in an 18th-century palazzo on the Gianicolo hill (closed lunch, closed Sun, closed August; 06.581.5274; Piazzale Aurelio, Monteverde).

Where to drink
Bustling Tazza D'Oro sells the city’s best coffee – a creamy, fragrant blend – near the Pantheon. No seating (closed Sunday; www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com; 06.678.9792; Via degli Orfani 84). Nearby, severe and sophisticated Sant’ Eustachio gives it a run for the money (www.santeustachioilcaffe.it; 06.6880.2048; Piazza Sant’ Eustachio 82).

Bar San Calisto is rowdy and rough-hewn, but no less classic. The bar, nicknamed Marcello’s, serves cheap coffee, beer and ice cream in Trastevere. This gritty hole-in-the-wall is famous for affogato, ice cream drizzled with liqueur, especially the vodka-lemon sorbet (closed Sunday, closed end of August; 06.583.5869; Piazza San Calisto 4).

Gawk at the glitterati at Bar Gianicolo (closed Monday, 06.580.6275; Piazzale Aurelio 5, Monteverde). Crowd-watch over a cocktail at Ombre Rosse (www.ombrerosse.com; 06.588.4155; Piazza Sant’ Egidio 12, Trastevere) or the chic, ivy-swathed Bar della Pace (06.686.1216; 3/7 Via della Pace, near Piazza Navona). D’Art Caffetteria – its new and noteworthy neighbour – nestles under Bramante’s dome (closed Monday; www.chiostrodelbramante.it; 06.6880.9035; Via della Pace, inside the Santa Maria della Pace Cultural Center).

Yet for wide-screen sensationalism, climb to the Capitoline Museum Cafè and watch sunset stain the city from the marble balustrade (closed Monday; 06.320.1706; Palazzo dei Conservatori, Piazza del Campidoglio, between Piazza Venezia and the Roman Forum).

Where to stay
Real Rome rents lovely apartments in the historic centre, well stocked with staples like olive oil and coffee. Highly recommended for travellers craving privacy and authenticity. Minimum three-night stay, €65–140 each night (www.realrome.com; 339.827.1285; Via delle Cese, 00040, Ariccia). Another chic, cheap option is The Beehive (www.the-beehive.com; Via Marghera 8, near Termini).

The Hotel Portoghesi is hidden away in the evocative Tor di Nona area, west of Piazza Navona. This stylish hotel includes a breakfast solarium and roof terrace, frothing with flowers. Doubles €185–310 (www.hotelportoghesiroma.com; 06.686.4231; Via dei Portoghesi 1).

The Hotel Hassler hosts the bel mondo atop the Spanish steps, surveying St Peter’s, the Villa Medici and all Rome. Big Spenders – like Bill Gates – prefer the swanky penthouse, though corner room 403 also is coveted. Doubles €520–730 (www.hotelhasslerroma.com; 06.699.340; Via Trinità dei Monti 6). And just next door is the exclusive boutique hotel Scalinata di Spagna. Doubles €250–380 (www.hotelscalinata.com; 06.679.3006; Piazza Trinità dei Monti 17, also near the Spanish Steps).

Transport
Leonardo da Vinci Airport – better known as Fiumicino – is 32km south-west of Rome (www.adr.it; 06.659.51). An excellent train service runs into the centre (€5 metropolitan slow train or €9.50 express), as do COTRAL night bus (€5). A taxi takes 45 minutes and costs around €40 (always use the authorised white and yellow cabs at the stand).

Ciampino – 15km south of downtown Rome – is a mixed blessing. Outrageously cheap flights land here (as low as €10 from London), but the public transport links are tricky (www.adr.it; 06.794.941). COTRAL buses connect to the vast Anagnina Station, then catch Metro Linea A to the central train hub, Termini (€1.80). Some airlines run more expensive shuttles (around €20 return), while a cab costs roughly €35.

No-frills airlines – like Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) and Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) – sell one-way tickets, making it affordable to fly into Rome and out of another regional capital, such as Naples, Venice, Pisa or Genoa. Other fledgling airlines connect Italy with the Continent: Sky Europe (www.skyeurope.com), Evolavia (www.evolavia.com), Hapag-Lloyd Express (www.hlx.com), Germanwings (www.germanwings.com) and Wizz (http://wizzair.com).

Italy has an extensive train network. Service is generally reliable and inexpensive – making rail the most pleasant way to explore the country (Ferrovie dello Stato; www.fs-on-line.com; 8488-888-088). Check schedules and purchase tickets from the automated machines, avoiding huge queues.

"Peck’s improv – and
his co-star’s ensuing
screech – sealed the
celebrity of this
sculpture, which is
probably an ancient
drain cover."

"Peter Greenaway
turns the rotund
Roman temple into an
alter ego in Belly
of an Architect"

"Any place begging
for custom is dire,
as Romans will wait
hours to eat at
the best pizzerias."

Main
Cinecitta
article

Back to the portfolio

Moviemaker Magazine Spring 2004		Sidebars for Cinema city: Rome’s eternal appeal The "Hollywood on the Tiber" survives bombs, near-bankruptcy and blockbusters with bella figura
		Ten striking cinematic moments in la città bella Passing away in the Pigneto Gestapo agents gun down the protesting widow Pina, played by Anna Magnani, in Open City (Roma Città Aperta, 1945). This proletarian suburb, the Pigneto, attracted Roberto Rossellini, as well as Pier Paolo Pasolini (Accattone! and Mamma Roma). Flight in the Porta Portese flea-market The humble poster-sticker and son pursue a bike-napper through the sprawling Porta Portese flea-market in Vittorio De Sica’s Bicycle Thief (Ladri di Bicicletti, 1948). Hope dies after a long chase on the Lungotevere Ripa, flanking the Tiber River. Ad-lib and adventure in the historic center William Wyler sends Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck lurching on a Vespa in Roman Holiday (1953). Even more endearing is the scene at the Mouth of Truth (the Bocca della Verità at Santa Maria in Cosmedin). Legend claims the disk’s face consumes the hands of liars. Peck’s improv – and his co-star’s ensuing screech – sealed the celebrity of this sculpture, which is probably an ancient drain cover. Wishing well at the Trevi Fountain Lovestruck American girls scatter spare change on the waters in Jean Negulesco’s Three Coins in a Fountain (Tre Soldi nella Fontana, 1954). Tradition claims one coin (cast backward over the left shoulder) ensures a return to Rome, two bring love and three a wedding in the Eternal City. Film noir in Piazza Farnese Murder and mayhem unleash near the French Embassy in Italy’s top thriller, The Facts of Murder (Un Maledetto Imbroglio, 1959), by Pietro Germi. Chariot chaos in the Circus Maximus In Ben Hur, Charlton Heston ricochets around a replica of the ancient Roman racetrack. No humans were harmed fatally in the making of William Wyler’s 1959 biblical blockbuster, contrary to rumor. However, its jinxed 1925 predecessor lost a stuntman on a set here, then relocated to Culver City. Vanity fair at the Via Veneto Federico Fellini captures the glitterati’s nightlife – in all its vanity and vapidity – in La Dolce Vita (1960). Massive model at the EUR Giantess Anita Ekberg chases a bourgeois, moralist professor outside the "square-shaped Colosseum" (Colosseo quadrato, formally known as the Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro). In The Temptations of Dr. Antonio (Le Tentazioni del Dottor Antonio, 1962), Fellini exploits the surreal architecture of EUR – the Esposizione Universale Roma, a Fascist-built World Exhibition complex. Porn in Piazza Navona This Baroque square saw Sophia Loren’s iconic and ironic strip tease in De Sica’s Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow (Ieri, Oggi e Domani, 1963). Pantheon as paunch Peter Greenaway turns the rotund Roman temple into an alter ego in Belly of an Architect (1987). An American associates the capital’s cupolas with his bulging stomach, which, it emerges, harbors a tumour. Know before you go Even the bureaucracy is Fellini-esque: applications for cinematography permits must include a €5.16 inquiry fee, a €10.33 revenue stamp and a €0.77 "release of authorisation". Contact the CineRomaCittà Film Commission (www.romacinemafilmcommission.it; +39.06.67.108.162; Settore Autorizzazioni, Via Tuscolana 1055, 00173 Roma. The same address serves the regional board; www.laziofilmcommission.it; +39.0672286.226). The Roma Independent Film Festival takes place in early April each year (www.riff.it; +39.06.45.425.050; Via Po 134, 00198 Roma). In autumn, the city hosts the progressive Cinecittà Internet Film Festival (www.cinecitta.com). Visual artists are eligible for the Rome Prize – eleven-months' lodging, studio space and stipend from the prestigious American Academy in Rome (www.aarome.org; 212-751-7200; 7 East 60 Street, New York, NY, 10022). Finally, request the excellent brochure, Rome, The Great Movie Set: a never-ending emotion, from Azienda di Promozione Turistica di Roma (www.romaturismo.it; +39.06.488.991; Via Parigi 11, 00185 Roma). Where to eat Even the fast food is delectable in Rome. Pizza al taglio shops sell mouth-watering slices, cut to order and wrapped in wax paper. Try plump suppli, tomato-rice balls, or cheese-potato pizza, sprinkled with rosemary: the city’s best is at La Boccaccia – Pizza e Focaccia (06.581.0043; Via di S. Dorotea 2, Trastevere). Many cafes serve excellent sandwiches, squashed flat in the grill, as well as fresh juice. Three speedy standouts are the salad sanctuary L’Insalata Ricca (www.insalataricca.it; 06.588.1301; Via G.C. Santini 12/16, Trastevere), Café Café (06.700.8743; Via de' S.S. Quattro 44, near the Colosseum) and, for that fried fish fix, Dal Filettaro a Santa Barbara (06.686.4018; Largo dei Librari 88, near the Campo de’ Fiori). Any place begging for custom is dire, as Romans will wait hours to eat at the best pizzerias, like Da Baffetto. Sixties radicals popularised this straightforward establishment – now the whole world scrambles for a seat (06.686.1617; Via del Governo Vecchio 114, near Piazza Navona). Locals prefer to dine across the river in atmospheric Trastevere, home to two famous pizza restaurants. Dar Poeta serves up soft, rich pies in a jovial atmosphere (closed lunch, closed Mon; 06.588.0516; Vicolo del Bologna 45). Panattoni is gruffer, but the vast pizzas are just as tasty. Celebrities rub shoulders with workers at the long marble tables. Also known as I Marmi, the Marbles, and the less-appetising l'Obitorio, the Morgue (closed Wed, closed August; 06.580.0919; Viale Trastevere 53/59). Da Settimio is a vivid, cheerful nook near the Pantheon, serving the best penne all’arrabiata in town (pasta with fiery tomato-garlic sauce) and superb gorgonzola polenta (firm corn-meal cake). Reserve a table for dinner, as this petite establishment quickly overflows (closed Sun and Mon; closed August; 06.678.9651; Via delle Colonnelle 14). Evangelista’s is perfect for long, intimate meals, including at least one fabled artichoke dish. Try them alla giudia (Roman-Jewish style, batter-fried whole) or al mattone (crushed between two bricks, then baked). An elegant option (closed lunch, closed Sun, closed August; 06.687.5810; Via delle Zoccolette 11a, near the Ghetto). Finally, celebrate special occasions at Antico Arco, a nouvelle cuisine mecca in an 18th-century palazzo on the Gianicolo hill (closed lunch, closed Sun, closed August; 06.581.5274; Piazzale Aurelio, Monteverde). Where to drink Bustling Tazza D'Oro sells the city’s best coffee – a creamy, fragrant blend – near the Pantheon. No seating (closed Sunday; www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com; 06.678.9792; Via degli Orfani 84). Nearby, severe and sophisticated Sant’ Eustachio gives it a run for the money (www.santeustachioilcaffe.it; 06.6880.2048; Piazza Sant’ Eustachio 82). Bar San Calisto is rowdy and rough-hewn, but no less classic. The bar, nicknamed Marcello’s, serves cheap coffee, beer and ice cream in Trastevere. This gritty hole-in-the-wall is famous for affogato, ice cream drizzled with liqueur, especially the vodka-lemon sorbet (closed Sunday, closed end of August; 06.583.5869; Piazza San Calisto 4). Gawk at the glitterati at Bar Gianicolo (closed Monday, 06.580.6275; Piazzale Aurelio 5, Monteverde). Crowd-watch over a cocktail at Ombre Rosse (www.ombrerosse.com; 06.588.4155; Piazza Sant’ Egidio 12, Trastevere) or the chic, ivy-swathed Bar della Pace (06.686.1216; 3/7 Via della Pace, near Piazza Navona). D’Art Caffetteria – its new and noteworthy neighbour – nestles under Bramante’s dome (closed Monday; www.chiostrodelbramante.it; 06.6880.9035; Via della Pace, inside the Santa Maria della Pace Cultural Center). Yet for wide-screen sensationalism, climb to the Capitoline Museum Cafè and watch sunset stain the city from the marble balustrade (closed Monday; 06.320.1706; Palazzo dei Conservatori, Piazza del Campidoglio, between Piazza Venezia and the Roman Forum). Where to stay Real Rome rents lovely apartments in the historic centre, well stocked with staples like olive oil and coffee. Highly recommended for travellers craving privacy and authenticity. Minimum three-night stay, €65–140 each night (www.realrome.com; 339.827.1285; Via delle Cese, 00040, Ariccia). Another chic, cheap option is The Beehive (www.the-beehive.com; Via Marghera 8, near Termini). The Hotel Portoghesi is hidden away in the evocative Tor di Nona area, west of Piazza Navona. This stylish hotel includes a breakfast solarium and roof terrace, frothing with flowers. Doubles €185–310 (www.hotelportoghesiroma.com; 06.686.4231; Via dei Portoghesi 1). The Hotel Hassler hosts the bel mondo atop the Spanish steps, surveying St Peter’s, the Villa Medici and all Rome. Big Spenders – like Bill Gates – prefer the swanky penthouse, though corner room 403 also is coveted. Doubles €520–730 (www.hotelhasslerroma.com; 06.699.340; Via Trinità dei Monti 6). And just next door is the exclusive boutique hotel Scalinata di Spagna. Doubles €250–380 (www.hotelscalinata.com; 06.679.3006; Piazza Trinità dei Monti 17, also near the Spanish Steps). Transport Leonardo da Vinci Airport – better known as Fiumicino – is 32km south-west of Rome (www.adr.it; 06.659.51). An excellent train service runs into the centre (€5 metropolitan slow train or €9.50 express), as do COTRAL night bus (€5). A taxi takes 45 minutes and costs around €40 (always use the authorised white and yellow cabs at the stand). Ciampino – 15km south of downtown Rome – is a mixed blessing. Outrageously cheap flights land here (as low as €10 from London), but the public transport links are tricky (www.adr.it; 06.794.941). COTRAL buses connect to the vast Anagnina Station, then catch Metro Linea A to the central train hub, Termini (€1.80). Some airlines run more expensive shuttles (around €20 return), while a cab costs roughly €35. No-frills airlines – like Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) and Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) – sell one-way tickets, making it affordable to fly into Rome and out of another regional capital, such as Naples, Venice, Pisa or Genoa. Other fledgling airlines connect Italy with the Continent: Sky Europe (www.skyeurope.com), Evolavia (www.evolavia.com), Hapag-Lloyd Express (www.hlx.com), Germanwings (www.germanwings.com) and Wizz (http://wizzair.com). Italy has an extensive train network. Service is generally reliable and inexpensive – making rail the most pleasant way to explore the country (Ferrovie dello Stato; www.fs-on-line.com; 8488-888-088). Check schedules and purchase tickets from the automated machines, avoiding huge queues.
"Peck’s improv – and his co-star’s ensuing screech – sealed the celebrity of this sculpture, which is probably an ancient drain cover."
"Peter Greenaway turns the rotund Roman temple into an alter ego in Belly of an Architect"
"Any place begging for custom is dire, as Romans will wait hours to eat at the best pizzerias."
Main Cinecitta article
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